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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 8:05 pm 
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Cosworth Management

Mechanicals
If you have an MFI head, you can use a 2i/RS inlet manifold but you'll need an adaptor plate to accomodate the Injectors, Ahmed Bayjoo has some of these off the shelf for £100 OR you can have your MFi intermediate fuel rail reemed out by a machinist - just take a cossie injector along and tell them that it needs to fit snugly. Ideally you need to use a XR2i or FRST inlet manifold - AND the 2i/RS head (the EFi head and manifold flow better than an MFi setup).

Cam Sensor (Emulation of the 'Phase' Sensor that is inside the Cossie Dizzy): Gadget and Jano make a proper bracket and pick up ring using an EEC-IV Sensor that runs behind the Cam pulley. Gap the sensor to lug at 6 thou.

TDC 'Crank' Sensor: Use the 1800 Sierra CVH bottom pulley and Crank Sensor bracket, this fits straight onto CVH/Zetec and all lines up nice. You'll need the pulley machined down to clear the inner wing and it has a pick up ring on it with 36 - 1 teeth, pull this ring off and get rid of all points exept 4 at 90 degrees to each other, sand out the ring so it slides on the pulley freely, then add 2 grub screws to lock it off.

At TDC one of the pips needs to be inline with the Crank Sensor. The Sierra set up is good because you just set the engine to TDC then move the pick up ring round untill the pip is inline with the Crank Sensor. The Crank Sensor bracket is part of the whole Cambelt cover on the Sierra so you cut the top half off just above the lower 2 mounting holes, the Crank Sensor has adjustable height also, so the gap can be set perfect. If you use this set up, you'll also need the 1800 Alternator pulley, when you fit this, remove the spacer washer that is behind your original pulley and put the new pully straight onto the Alternator Fan, you'll also need the 1800 Alternator bracket, get 4mm machined off this to move the Alternator 4mm towards the passenger side so when you use the Sierra belt, it all runs perfectly in line.

TIP: I used the original ERST pulley - but took 4mm off the Crank side - thus enabling me to just about fit on the 4 toothed part of the Sierra pulley (after i ground off the alternator belt part)! This way i don't loose any space between the chassis rail and pulley! And you can use your existing alternator setup. You will need to make a bracket to mount the crank sensor on (on nothing less than 3mm thick ally).

Don't forget you'll need an Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) so you can either use the Cosworth Throttle Body that houses it or you can also use the Escort RSTurbo Throttle Body (the Cosworth TPS fits straight on) and get a remote Idle Speed Control Valve holder from a Lancia Delta Integrale straight from Weber for about £25, then you can put the valve wherever you want it. If you use the Cossie Throttle body - you'll need to turn it around 90 degrees so the TPS sits underneath and the ISCV to the drivers side. You will need to fashion a new accelerator bracket or get a ready made alloy one from Gadget or Jano.

The throttle body bolts straight onto an EFi inlet but MFi inlets will require some modification (relocation of the bolt holes).

You also need to swing the TPS 180 degrees around so the plug faces the inlet manifold. To do this you need to file a 'flat' face onto the reverse of the butterfly pin that slots into the TPS.

Cossie Parts required for the conversion
2 Bar (Standard 2wd) MAP Sensor
'Yellow' Injectors (Standard 2wd Cosworth - good for up to 270bhp)
Cosworth Level 6, Level 8 or P8 ECU (you will need a base chip to enable the car to run well enough to get you up and running - Jano can supply you this)
2WD Sapphire Cosworth loom (this will need modding to accommodate the CVH layout - a few wires will need to be extended)
Cosworth Ignition Amplifier
Cosworth Ignition Amplifier Heatsink
Cosworth Water Temperature Sensor
Cosworth Air Charge Sensor (ACT)
Cosworth Throttle Body (You will need to tap new holes in the inlet manifold to fit it if using MFi OR use an ERST throttle body with remote ISCV)
Cosworth 2wd Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (or 4wd TPS if using Level 8 or P8 ECU and swap round the outer 2 wires on the TPS Plug if using a 2wd loom)
Cosworth Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) (If you are using your ERST Throttle Body: Remote holder for ISCV)

1.8 CVH Parts
1.8 CVH OR XR2i/FRST 1.6CVH Crank Sensor (Ford EEC-IV Sensor) - Swap wires round on plug as it is an EEC Sensor not Weber
1.8 CVH Crank Sensor bracket
1.8 CVH Alternator pulley and bracket
1.8 CVH Crankshaft pulley and bracket
1.8 CVH Crankshaft pointer ring and bracket

The Following if you are making a hybrid dizzy
ERST Dizzy
2wd Dizzy
Combining the two Dizzy's is a professional job!

The Following if you are using a Cam Position Sensor to emulate the Phase Sensor in the 2wd Dizzy
16v Zetec Cam Position Sensor (Ford EEC-IV Sensor) - Swap wires round on plug as it is an EEC Sensor not Weber
Cam Sensor Bracket
Cam pickup ring - with two pips at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock

ERST MFi/FRST EFi Parts
MFI Inlet Manifold (some machining will need doing to this)

OR

EFi inlet manifold

EFI Fuel Rail + Fuel line that screws to it
EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator
MFI Servo Vacuum Line

2 Metres of Fuel Line
Fuel Filter (92FG 9155 AB)
Quick release fittings for filter

Note: You don't need the 1.8CVH bits if you are using 4 lugs welded onto your bottom pulley!

On the Cosworth loom terminating 9 pin multiplug:
Brown and White - (this isn't needed) as they are for the Water Temp Gauge on a Cosworth
Green - goes to your Rev Counter
Black - Ignition Live
Black and Red - Fuel Pump Positive
Red and Blue - Permanent Live, straight to the battery
Earths bolt to the manifold or car chasis.

Also ALWAYS replace the fuses (which are on the Yellow relays - part of the loom) with new items!

Mk1 Turbo fitting tips
bill bo baggins wrote:
my mk1 has already been converted to 1600cvh, but currently running 4 speed box. i know the inner wing has to be cut out to accept a 5 speed, do you know what else is needed to accept a 5speed?


Yes, you need the 5 speed fitting kit from http://www.fiesta-centre.co.uk - this includes a re-inforcing bar (that goes from the passenger side Fiesta Centre tie bar to the passenger side inner TCA mount), a fiesta centre Tie-bar (which is bent to accomodate the 5 speed box), bushes for the tie bar, an 'infill panel' for the inner wing (which needs cutting out) and all the nuts and bolts needed for the job. The kit is £95+VAT - buy the kit, don't try and do this on the cheap by diy'ing it! Its well worth the money!

If you do not have it - get a mk1 xr2 gearbox mount - it goes from the top of the gearbox to the passenger side inner wing, only one of the bolt holes will line up on a Series 2/3i/2i/mk2 xr2 gearbox -but if you locktite it in, it will provide a good extra 'brace' as the turbo engine will be very powerful and any extra bracing is a good idea!

Its worth upgrading your brakes/driveshafts to xr2 spec if you havent done this already - also think about some reconned calipers or maybe a rear disc conversion too... its all well going quick, but you need to stop!

bill bo baggins wrote:
also do you have any advise or tips on putting the rst engine in? i.e. what rad/fan to use, where to put it etc.


I've not yet come to that part on mine - but I have about 3cm between front panel edge and turbo housing/actuator. Pace will make you up a cutom rad to your own spec - they do them as thin as 17mm - this would be ideal, with a slimline fan 'pulling' the air through the radiator.

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