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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:31 am 
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Posts: 825
Location: Home: redhill
James asked me to write a guide. Ive been very busy lately but here is a rough guide with some more bits to be added. I'll update the progress at the top here.

I know many people may know how to fit such a kit but this is intended to help those, who like me, had never attempted anything on such a scale before!

you never know, might even grace the FAQ/guide section one day :shock: :roll: :lol:

enjoy

PAUL


PS:- feel free to give any extra advice, i will add it to the main blurb and i appologise if i made any serious cock ups. its now half midnight and it was only supposed to take 10 mins!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:31 am 
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Location: Home: redhill
Purchasing List

GENUINE sump gasket
Exhaust studs
Exhaust heat nuts + spring washers
Inlet manifold gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket – fiesta rs turbo
Mechanical Fuel pump blanking plate gasket

8mm Fuel line

Oil (10w40?)
Filter
Sump washer

Coolant

Rough Tools guide:
Definitely required
10mm socket
13mm socket/deep socket hex
17mm socket hex
7mm socket for jubilee clips
10mm spanner
13mm spanner
19mm spanner

Timing light

Optional:
Stanley knife for silicone hoses
Drill & Welder for the sump

First things First:

Double check the above lists, make sure you have all the tools/spares/time/etc cos once you start it’s a pain to go back.
So do you feel lucky? Well do you punk?

…disconnect the battery, easy 10mm socket (stop now if this is causing grief!)

…remove the bonnet, as it just gets in the way (four 10mm bolts at the front, get someone to help lift the bonnet and support it while you undo the bolts, try not to scratch the bonnet too much! And don’t let it drop!


Getting messy…

Start by draining the sump. You want to run new oil for your new turbo so might as well let it drain off now…

While its draining, remove the starter motor. To do this, disconnect the wiring clip from the alternator and remove the feed from the battery. Undo the 3 13mm headed bolts and drop it out of the bottom of the car.

Then drain the coolant from the radiator. For the more gentile among you there is a drain plug in the bottom left corner (view from sitting inside the car looking at rad), or yank off one of the bottom hoses if you feel a little more brutal.


Once all is drained remove buckets so that you don’t drop anything in the oil!


Inlet manifold side:

Basically, this has about 6nuts holding it on, all 13mm get a good ring spanner to do this so you don’t burr them up. Undo the engine lifting eye (drivers side) and the mechanical fuel pump (passenger/dizzy side)
You shouldn’t need to remove the carb from the manifold, but make sure you detach everything before pulling the manifold/carb off
(Fuel lines/vacuum hoses/anit-run-on solenoid etc.)

Exhaust Manifold side:

Undo the join of the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust system, which is toward the rear of the engine bay. Undo the manifold from the head, about 8 or so 13mm bolts. I would advise using a 13mm hex head socket rather so there is no chance of burring the bolts up.
Some will come out on the threads so replacing these with new threads is best (see purchasing list).

Be patient, if the bolts go tight, relax get some wd40 and pray you don’t snap them!

If all is well and you have undone them, continue.

If the car is jacked up high enough you should be able to remove the manifold and the downpipe as one, up through the engine bay. This saves time and also the risk of damaging components that can be sold on or saved for another day…

Remove the radiator, although not essential its worth doing to protect it from being punctured. Its so simple, two 10mm bolts at the top and the hoses off course (fan should come off still attached)

Distributor:
Disconnect the ignition leads from the spark plugs. Remove the king lead from the coil.
Remove the old distributor by undoing the two 10mm bolts and pulling the distributor from the head.

Sump:
If you are using the original xr2 n/a cvh block then you will need to add a turbo oil drain. (See above)
Remove the old sump, by undoing the 14 or so + bolts. Remember the 4 in the corners. To gain access to the gearbox side, remove the cover plate at the bottom of the gearbox.

See SUMP SECTION for details on the sump

Clean up the new sump mating surface make sure it is free from any debris. Carefully attach/glue the GENUINE FORD sump gasket to the sump.
Carefully, (a second person is very useful here) slide it up into position.
Bolt it up following the correct sequence which can be found in the Haynes Manual for the fiesta. The bolts don’t need to be done much more than hand tight. Use a torque wrench if unsure and quote the manual for the correct setting.

Have a beverage – Tea/beer, because that may have been tough!!

Fuel Pump:
Attach the fuel pump to the crossmember/firewall beam as shown. If this is not the desired location or an alternative pump is being used, then seek alternative fitment solution. Lengths of Fuel lines will need to be adjusted to suit.

Oil Feed:

Remove the oil pressure switch, insert…

adaptor into the engine block,
dowty seal,
banjo bolt/hose
dowty seal

then screw the oil pressure switch into the end of the adaptor.

You could use some red loctite thread sealant (suitable for high temperature oils) to seal the threads.


Oil Filter:

Remove the old oil filter if you havent already done so and replace with the new oil filter.


Return Fuel line:

Remove the return fuel line from the underside of the car. Disconnect it from the engine bay and undo it at the rear. Special fasteners hold the lines in place along the underside of the car.

Replace with a fuel feed line, or for a neater factory fit, bend up a new line using fuel piping as mentioned in the first section. Secure in place.
Drop the fuel tank by undoing the four mounting bolts. Slide down off the fuel filler pipe.
Remove the fuel return line and replace with 6.5mm line to join to the new return hose (8mm).
Replace the tank, drain out some fuel if it is heavy, (easier if almost empty). Slide it diagonally up the filler pipe and rotate and align the holes.


Turbo Technics Exhaust manifold:
Attach the Turbo Technics exhaust manifold to the engine using the new exhaust studs, spring washers and heat nuts. Use a new mk3 fiesta turbo gasket for cvh engine.

Attach turbo:
Attach the turbo technics t25 turbo to the exhaust manifold. Ensure that you take care and keep the inlet and outlet ports of the turbo covered to prevent objects from entering the turbo (dirty/oil/nuts/spanners!!)
Connect turbo oil feed and oil return

Attach exhaust elbow and downpipe:
Attach the turbo technics exhaust elbow to the turbo exhaust port using the four spring washers and 4 heat nuts.
Connect the downpipe to the bolt using the four m10 heat nuts and spring washers.

Connect to exhaust system:
Connect the downpipe to the xr2 exhaust system using the special spacer ring and tensioner assembly.
Secure the xr2 exhaust pipe in place on its hangers and connect the new middle hanger.

Attach Fuel pressure Regulator:
Attach this to the little bracket that holds the brake line going across the engine bay (directly behind the carb)

Attach inlet manifold/carb:
Attaching the carb/inlet manifold is reverse of removal, ensure you use new gasket when installing.

Non-Return Breather:
Connect the non return valve to the breather port and to the bottom of the filter. Connect the other side to the rocket cover, as per the normal xr2 cvh engine

Attach/Move radiator&Fan:
The radiator has to be moved over to allow the turbo to be fit. As a result, the fan will foul the top radiator hose. Turbo Technics drill a new hole to move the radiator over towards the passenger side to allow fitment of the turbo. The Turbo Technics cars had a square section cut from the corner of the fan, to allow it to clear around the hose. This is all using you own judgement, and it is best to install a slim line fan (Pacet/Kenlowe/Spal/Peugeot fans). The fan does NOT need to be move to the other side of the radiator and WILL fit if the rad is moved slightly to avoid contact with the actuator port.

Attach Vacuum advance/retard Distributor:
Fit the new sealing washer/o’ring to the distributor and install the distributor into place.


Fitting Plenum chamber:
3 bolts attach the plenum chamber to the top of the carb, it can only go on one way, so don’t force it! The rubber seal should be fitted around the rim of the carb prior to fitment of the plenum.
If you don’t have one, use a bead of mastic or silicone sealant.
Fit Overboost Switch
This is connected to the plenum chamber and is used to prevent overboosting in the event of actuator failure. It is screwed into the chamber. Electrical connections will be documented later.

Fuel Pump Blanking Plate:
Fit the fuel pump blanking plate with the gasket.

Intercooler:
Install your choice of intercooler now


Piping up:
Air in turbo:
Connect a suitable air filter to a piece of 64mm Silicone hose and attach this to the compressor housing inlet.

Air out turbo:
Connect a piece of silicone pipe from the outlet port of the turbo/compressor housing (pointing vertically upwards) to the inlet of your intercooler.

From the other port of the intercooler connect using suitable hosing, to the plenum chamber.

(if you want to run a dump valve see DUMP VALVE section)
(if you want to run a boost gauge see BOOST GAUGE section)

Connect a vacuum hose from the distributor to the back of the carb.
Connect a vacuum hose form the fuel pressure regulator to the plenum chamber

Connect Fuel lines…

 Feed Line to Pump
 Pump to Regulator
 Regulator to Carb
 Regulator Return to Return Line


Replace spark leads

Replace main coil lead

Replace Starter Motor – 3 x 13mm bolts

Fill With oil

Fill With Coolant

WIRING:

Attach the mounting bracket for the inertia switch. (if your kit doesn’t contain one, use one off any injection ford – escort/ka/fiesta

The basic circuit is as follows:

The fuel pump takes a supply from the anti-run-on solenoid on the carb. It goes through a 20amp fuse. Then it enters the inertia switch/fuel pump cut off switch, then goes to the pump. The pump is earthed to the chassis.

NOTE: The anti-run-on solenoid on the carb needs to be connected as usual so don’t cut the wire.

The overboost switch is in series to the black lead of the ignition coil. Cut the coil and join each side of the cut to the overboost switch using two lengths of wire.

That’s it, nice and simple.

Take your time and construct a good loom with good quality and correct rated wire.


PRE-START CHECKS

All hoses securely attached?
Everything visibly connected?
Check fuel hose connections
Have you filled up with oil & water?

Any spare parts still left over? Sounds daft but if you have a pile of bits you havent put on yet then you’re not ready to go starting it!


Connect battery when you are ready! Crank her over and fire her up!
Let it run for a bit, then turn it off and check for leaks/etc

Set timing at 8 (??) degrees advance

Go for a rag!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:48 am 
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Location: St. Neots, Cambridgeshire (UNI - Nottingham)
Nice one Paul, one of the best and complete tt fitting guides so far.

This will help me no end when fitting mine and i'm sure others will agree :D

Looks like a lengthy process tho :blub:

Cheers
JAMES

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:30 am 
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nice one mate should be a big help, could i use a sandwich plate instead of drilling the sump

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:02 pm 
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Eddysmith2000 wrote:
nice one mate should be a big help, could i use a sandwich plate instead of drilling the sump


eddy ive checked loads of turbo applications since i did my build and ive seen a take off TO the turbo from an oil filter sandwich plate, from the back of the block, from oil coolers but as far as ive seen the return should always go to the sump or to the bottom of the block.

If you are using an rsturbo bottom end, which most people will ultimately end up doing, you dont need to drilll the sump, just use the normal turbo return at the bottom of the block.

if you do weld the sump, id suggest then you to have it brased on but if you have to get it mig welded get it leak tested. unless you have a very pure air mix mig welding can leave air bubbles in the weld.

james yes it takes a while to do properly, not because its differcult just because you spend time finding suitable bolts and nuts etc
Took me about half an hour to strip your kit from my car, although i wasnt interested in watching the paintwork!

Actually come to think of it i spent most of my time arsing about with that sump and the fuel lines.

Id advise you take your time though and dont have to go to work on the monday morning like me!

PAUL


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:18 pm 
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just a quick question...... how much are these kits?
can you still buy them brand new?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm 
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Location: Manchester
The Turbo Technics kit is no longer available brand new. Even Turbo
Technics themselves no longer support or supply it.

The kits do, however, become available more often than you'd imagine.
They pop up on Ebay occassionaly as kits, and more receintly as a full
XR2. Even more receintly on here. Unfortunatly, it's usualy a case
of being in the right place at the right time and having the money ready
when one does become available. £350 should see you with a complete kit.
A complete car can cost anything from £400 upwards.

Good luck.

Alternatively, you could always try and put together your own.
Using a Fiesta RST turbo and manifold and a Saab 900 dizzy vacuum unit
as the backbone of the kit. You then have a choice of intercooler and
pipework depending on how you intend on laying out the setup. The only
thing you'd need to manufacture would be the plennum, and as long as you
get the volume area correct then you are on your way.

Jason.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:27 pm 
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Location: kent
thanks jason you have been a big help


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:41 pm 
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You are the man!

But, you don't mention any modifications to the carb... and? Am I right in assuming you're talking about the later round-top carb?
Are you writing this assuming whoever has the TT kit also has the modified carb to go with it - i.e bought as a complete setup?

Anyways, its still an excellent and well overdue guide.

Looks too easy in text form... it can't be thought can it?? Easy jobs are always the ones that come back and bite you on the arse. :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:41 pm 
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I'll add a bit ;)....

Carb Mods

Original Webber twin choke
- modified Jets (primary main 107, primary air 150, secondary air 110)
- modified to mechanical secondary operation (this is so the second choke opens correctly and at the right time with boost.)

Modified Float Height - Float height 32mm Float drop 42mm

Stand Pipes - Fit float chamer vent stand pipes to the two side vents on the carb face and you should have lengths of pipe 20mm high ones tapped in, so say 25 - 28mm in total length.

JAMES

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:24 pm 
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yeah im assuming that you have got yourself a full setup, the only choice being the intercooler.

i will add more to the guide this week for boost gauge and dump valve connections, modding the xr2 sump and what to do to the carb.

PAUL


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